2015 KYB Air Fork Rebuild
(with Links to Compression and Rebound
Gold Valve Installations) 

This is a single chamber Air Fork with a Balance Spring. There is one air chamber per leg.

The cartridges are Open-Chamber.

Compression adjustment is on the fork cap of the left leg while Rebound Adjustment is on the fork cap of the right leg. Keep all components for the left leg separate from the right.

RT has a Spring Conversion Kit for these forks that converts it from Air Spring to Coil Spring. It is a SFF (Single Function Fork) meaning there is only one fork spring.

See your DVS Setup Sheet for valving and setup recommendations.

DVS Setup Sheet - If you haven't already, go to DVS Valving Search, insert your Access Code, and rider data and print your DVS Setup Sheet.

Featured, and special thanks to Master Suspension Technician Alan "AJ" Peck.

Click on images to enlarge.



FD1- Place the fork firmly in a vice at the lower triple clamp location and back out the adjusters.
Be careful when clamping the fork tube as to not damage it. This is much easier with TMVJ 065 aluminum vise jaws. They have a large "V" and are very gentle to the tube while holding quite solidly.

FD2- Remove the valve stem cap.

FD3- Using the Race Tech Tool, remove the valve core to release pressure.

FD4- Remove the fork cap using flat pliers or wrench.

FD5- Remove the cap from the rod.

FD6- Using the Cartridge Holding Tool, hold the cartridge in place while removing the bottom fork bolt.

FD7- Remove the bottom fork bolt.

FD8- Remove the cartdridge. 

FD9- Using a flat head screwdriver, remove the dust seal.

FD9- Remove the circlip.

FD10- Remove the fork tube by slide hammering.

FD18- Tip: You may need to heat the seal/bushing area if the tubes don't come apart easily during slide hammering. Try slide hammering after heating the specified area.

FD19- Some forks may suffer damage to the Teflon bushings during disassmebley (as shown). Its good to have replacement bushings on hand, just in case.

FD20- Another way to remove the seal with a minimal chance of damage to the bushing is to completely fill the fork with used oil, invert it, remove the wiper and clip, and put it into hydraulic press to force the seal out.
This seems like it could be a big mess but if the fork is completely full and there is no compressable air space, the seal pushes out and a small amount dribbles over the edge.
Once the seal is out it is usually much easier to get the bushing out.

FD21- Remove the inner fork bushing with a screwdriver or fingernail. Fingernails are better if you have the strength.

FD22- Remove the bushings and the seal washer.

FD23- If you're not replacing seals, use blue painters tape or electrical tape to cover the sharp edge of the bushing groove during removal.

FD24- Inspect the bushings for damage, including worn-down Teflon* or embedded material.
*Teflon it a Trademark of Dupont Corp.

FD25- Inspect the fork tube for pits, dings, and straightness.
Come on AJ, you can look closer than that!

CD1- Hold the cartridge Tube with TFSH 32 Shaft Holding Tool. Loosen the compression base assembly from the cartridge.
You may need to use some heat on the thread. Do not heat over 350º F.
Laying the cartridge horizontally on an anvil and tapping with a plastic mallet on the threaded area works well too.

CD2- Remove the compression base assembly from the cartridge.

CD3- Loosen the cartridge head.

CD4- Remove the rebound rod and valving assembly.

This is a Post Type Compression Assembly.
It has a LSV Valve (Low Speed Valve) below the compression stack.
You will replace the stock Wave Washer and Cupped Washer with the ones supplied in the kit.

CA1- Apply Loctite to the cartridge head.

CA2- Insert the rebound rod assembly into the cartridge and tighten securely.

CA3- Apply Loctite to compression base assembly.

CA4- Tighten the compression base assembly into the cartridge.

FA1- Insert the cartdrige into the fork tube.

FA2- Install the fork bottom bolt.

FA3- Using the Race Tech tool, tighten down the fork bottom bolt.

FA4- Pour oil into the fork tube.

FA5- Pull up to bleed oil through and..

FA6- compress to finish the process. Repeat until the fork is bled fully.

FA7- Install the cap onto the rebound rod.

FA8- Secure the lock nut to the cap.

FA9- Securely tighten down the cap.

FA10- Install the valve core.

FA11- Pressurize the fork to required specification from DVS sheet.

FA12- Install the valve cap.

FA13- Apply 5 more horsepower by installing Race Tech sticker.